Love this forum, hope to make a meeting soon. I'm in the process of cycling my QT (20 gal, Aquaclear HOB filter with ceramic and sponge media, heater, Koralia 425gph X 2). Filled the tank last week and put two pieces of live rock to seed that I will slowly remove after cycling. Dosed with ammonia chloride to 2ppm on 2/23. Then..... 2/24........ammonia 1.5, NO2 0 2/25........ammonia 1.5, NO2 0.1, NO3 not tested 2/26........ammonia 1.5, NO2 0.2, NO3 not tested 2/27........ammonia 0.25, NO2 0.25, NO3 ~30(between 25 & 50) Using Salifert tests. Could I really have Nitrate that soon? When ammonia hits 0 should I pulse again?
Hiya, Yes, with the live rock cycles can go a little faster. Looks like you're on your way. Kim/Benton, AR
Thanks Kim. Ammonia 0 tonight, Nitrite up to 1ppm and Nitrate up to 50ppm. 'Nother question. My salinity is steady at 1.026 but my Mg++ and Ca++ aren't up to specs at this salinity they are 420 for Calcium and 1140 for Magnesium. Any ideas why? There's nothing in the tank that should be using Ca++ or Mg++.
Hiya, You're calcium and mag are fine for that salinity. I run mine between 400-450. I don't measure my mag that much. More concerned with cal, ph, and Alk level's. All three of these will interact with each other. Plus, unless you're going to have coral's in the tank, your calcium won't be so important. As soon as you get the nitrate's to zero, it'll be time for a partial water change. You should see diatoms before this though. Kim/Benton, Ar
Would love to see some pics of your tank. How much rock do you have? Somebody may have some different advice but I wouldn't be concerned with calcium or magnesium at this point. Save those tests for later. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Thanks guys. Alkalinity is 9.3. I just have 3 small live rocks totaling 5lbs in a 20 gal QT. I know Ca++ and Mg++ aren't important in a QT just curious why my mix didn't produce the calcium and magnesium levels expected. I know it will be important down the road in my DT. Not much to see, just a bare bottom QT.
IME the levels in a QT are typically controlled with water changes, unless you setup the tank with rock permanently. The only time you don't want rock in there is if you are treating with medications and then it turns to a hospital tank. QT is just as much for the fish to get used to captive life in a relatively stress free environment as it is to watch for pests. Also, if you do intend to remove all of the rock, be sure you are putting something in there for them to hide in, clay pots work, as well as PVC pipe fittings. Good luck! And on the cycle, don't be surprised if the ammonia spikes again. IMO the nitrites didn't get high enough. Almost every tank I have cycled has had the nitrites go high enough to max out the test kit before it really settled down. Also watch for a brown "diatom" bloom once the cycle completes. And where did you get your saltwater? Did you mix it yourself? If so, what brand did you use? 420 isn't bad even in a reef, if you are keeping up with your water changes and husbandry. Can't wait to see some new critters in there!
My bad, didn't notice it was your quarantine tank. Read too fast. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
That's a good idea. In fact I have two buckets of mix (since I'll soon be mixing up the equivalent of a whole bucket). I'll open the other and make my next batch of water with it and see what it does. I'm using Instant Ocean Reef Crystals with RO/DI water from my unit (zero TDS) Some one told me to roll the bucket of salt to mix it up but it was too full for that to do anything IMO. Ammonia 0, Nitrites up to 2ppm, Nitrates up to 100 ppm.
This graph is in one of the books I got when I started this hobby way back when. Found a picture online that is pretty similar. Constant small water changes during the cycle will help keep these parameters down if you are doing a fish cycle, and will help keep algae to a minimum during the cycle.
Thanks Wylon! Looks like I'm somewhere just before the peak of the Nitrite. I may have put too much ammonia in.....my Nitrate is already maxing out on my test kit and the Nitrite is still rising.
I've seen that happen before, nothing to be to worried about, just remember to get it down a bit before adding live stock and you will be good to go.
Wohoo! Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 10! My DT has been delayed so I think I'll pulse again with ammonia just to make sure I have adequate nitrification and de-nitrification. Then maybe put my first fish in QT till the DT is ready. Leads to another question. How long do each of you quarantine? Do you treat routinely with anything? Prazipro? Copper?
Hiya, Unfortunately, not many of us quarantine, me being one of the bad ones. So, I'll have to leave this for someone else to answer. Kim/Benton, AR
I pulsed with ammonia again since my tank still isn't in and I want to keep my bacterial levels high. I don't seem to be able to get my ammonia test (Salifert) to read above 1.5 no matter how much I add. If you could see this data in graph form and extrapolate the ammonia and nitrate levels on the second go round they would be off the chart. I'll either ghost feed or hit it with ammonia again when the nitrate gets to 0 if my tank isn't in. Or could I keep a couple of small fish for an extended time while I wait for my tank to cycle? TRUE From 77 1.024 8.1 8.0 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.05 380 1250 Acceptable Range To 82 1.027 8.4 13.0 0.10 0.20 0.50 0.03 0.07 450 1350 Date Temp SG Alk NH3 NO2 NO3 Calcium Magnesium 2/23/2013 QT 79.0° 1.026 10.0 2.00 480 1170 2/24/2013 QT 79.8° 1.026 10.2 1.50 0.00 430 1200 2/25/2013 QT 79.2° 1.026 10.2 1.50 0.10 420 1170 2/26/2013 QT 79.7° 1.027 1.50 0.20 2/27/2013 QT 79.3° 1.026 0.25 0.25 30.00 2/28/2013 QT 79.2° 1.026 9.3 0.00 1.00 50.00 420 1140 3/01/2013 QT 79.7° 1.026 0.00 2.00 100.00 3/02/2013 QT 79.2° 1.025 0.00 1.50 50.00 3/03/2013 QT 78.8° 1.023 0.00 1.00 50.00 3/04/2013 QT 79.0° 1.023 0.00 0.10 25.00 3/05/2013 QT 79.3° 1.023 0.00 0.00 10.00 NH4 added 3/06/2013 QT 79.0° 1.023 1.50 1.00 50.00 3/07/2013 QT 79.0° 1.023 1.50 2.00 100.00 3/08/2013 QT 79.7° 1.023 0.00 2.00 100.00 3/09/2013 QT 79.7° 1.023 0.00 2.00 100.00 3/10/2013 QT 79.9° 1.025 7.3 0.00 1.00 100.00 3/11/2013 QT 79.2° 1.025 7.3 0.00 0.10 25.00 415 1080 3/12/2013 QT 79.3° 1.025 0.00 0.00 25.00 3/13/2013
For me it depends on the condition of the fish. If I buy pretty lethargic, thin or very unhealthy fish, they are more prone to diseases and carrying more too. I treat them 7-14 days for anything serious. If I notice anything extreme, I'll treat up to 1 month or more. For good condition fish, fat, plump active fish, I treat copper for 30 minutes and then dip fresh water to clean the fish of parasites and copper before putting it into the display tank. I find that if you keep good water quality, common diseases such as ich, will go away on their own. The only other thing you have to worry about is a stress free environment for your fish. No one that bullies him too much. Good water quality and stress free environment will allow your fish to produce a good slime coat. This prevents a lot of common parasitic problems from going out of control or even eliminating them over time. I've also noticed, fish with scales tend to also pick up diseases less. The scales act as a second barrier under the slime coat. I'd recommend determining what fish you want then placing them in to the tank accordingly to produce the best stress free environment. Higher survival rate, lower parasite problems and less burden on your wallet.
