First Salt Tank

Discussion in 'New Tank Builds' started by shawn13c, Oct 28, 2016.

  1. shawn13c

    shawn13c Plankton

    Actually the caribsea special grade looks better its more of a uniform size where the original varies greatly. Anyone used that grade?
     
    huntindoc likes this.
  2. mhattenhauer

    mhattenhauer RRMAS Supporter

    I had the fine sand and transitioned to tropic eden reef flakes. It takes the flow without moving much
     
  3. shawn13c

    shawn13c Plankton

    Ok guys got some more equipment. Got a 36 trigger ruby sump, reef octopus skimmer, and some salt and some other stuff. So now all I should need to start putting things in is a return pump and some plumbing work. Can anyone help me determine how much water to put in the sump so if power goes out it doesnt flood the sump. Also my tank is only drilled for one overflow but the sump has two bulkheads for the start will it hurt to just use one or is it more beneficial to make a T fitting so I have the drain split to go into both? Will post pics of new stuff tommorow to show where I'm at now. Oh and also got a ro/di setup as well.
     
  4. shawn13c

    shawn13c Plankton

    Ok guys heres some rough pics of what I got pictures well get better when i start getting everything in place lol. Really excited about this stuff got it from colton as well. Couldnt pass up such a good IMG_20161102_064636088_HDR.jpg IMG_20161102_064556286_HDR.jpg IMG_20161102_064541030_HDR.jpg deal.
     
    LJC6780 and mhattenhauer like this.
  5. huntindoc

    huntindoc RRMAS BOD Membership Director Staff Member


    That's what I use. Haven't had any problem with it and the sand sleeping fish I have. Stays put pretty well too.
     
  6. shawn13c

    shawn13c Plankton

    Ok thanks doc that might be what i go with. Also im trying to determine what return pump to get. Ive heard its like 20-40 times total volume of water how. But do return pumps flow to reactors if you had one and how would that effect what size. Also hear if you get one that pumps faster than overflow can take water down itll flow over top so im not sure what to do?
     
  7. DCHarrington

    DCHarrington Vice President Staff Member

    You can get a DC pump that you can adjust the flow or get a gate or ball valve to adjust the flow
     
    shawn13c likes this.
  8. shawn13c

    shawn13c Plankton

    Right i know i can adjusta ball valve on one thats not dc but im just trying to get an idea of how much flow is needed to move enough water without dumping it in floor. I dont know where to start.
     
  9. huntindoc

    huntindoc RRMAS BOD Membership Director Staff Member

    I don't want a huge amount of flow through the sump myself. I want detritus to fall out there where it's easier to remove than in the tank. I would think anywhere around 700 gph would be good...maybe a tad more if you want to plumb a manifold for reactors as I have done.
     
    whippetguy and shawn13c like this.
  10. shawn13c

    shawn13c Plankton

    Just a small update as of right now. I have been so busy at work and with kids i havent had much tine to do much with tank. However i am back to looking for stuff. I have decided to leave tank unpainted. I have decided im gunna get the fiji pink sand. And i really like the brs reefsaver rock because i mostly like the idea of not disturbing the actual reef. Plus i actually prefer the looks of it. Sorry its been so long since ive said anything. And as far as the return pump think im gunna go with the life gard quiet one 3000. Its 758 gph. I want a soft flow i feel like a slower flow matched to what the drain is at should help keep nouse down. And reviews on that pump seem pretty good. Powerheads im not sire on they are fairly expensive and right now my concern is getting the dry rock in and shaped how i want and then start curing it until i can get the sand and pump and rest of plumping. Believe it or not my local lowes doesnt have gate valves so im gunna get it off of brs so i can get a really good quality along with a check valve.
     
  11. Deton8it

    Deton8it President Staff Member

    For a 90 gallon corner I would recommend the Quiet One 6000. You can turn it down if it is putting out too much flow but you can't turn up the 3000 to add more if needed. I'm not talking turning it down with a ball valve, I mean turn down the amount of water the pump can suck in at any given time. As for check valves, you want the BRS one anyway because it has no metal parts. The ones from Lowes and Home Depot normally contain a small amount of metal somewhere. Typically it is in a spring.
     
  12. Botheboss

    Botheboss Director-At Large

    Trust me go with the larger grain. I have some small grain sand in my tank and I'm so tried of it blowing around everywhere! Unless you plan on a lower flow tank.
     
    LJC6780 and Kim like this.
  13. huntindoc

    huntindoc RRMAS BOD Membership Director Staff Member

    Where are you going to use a check valve?
     
  14. shawn13c

    shawn13c Plankton

    Check valve will go on the return line back to tank. And i dont plan on having a strong flow in tank really. Ill think more on switch sands but im pretty sure ill use it.
     
  15. Deton8it

    Deton8it President Staff Member

  16. huntindoc

    huntindoc RRMAS BOD Membership Director Staff Member

    I guess what I'm really asking is why do you need a check valve? They are notorious for failing...in fact a lot of plumbers will say it's not a matter of if they will fail but when they will fail. I would always recommend setting your system up where your sump can easily handle everything that drains backwards from your return line without difficulty. In fact I set mine up so it could hold everything that's in the overflow box as well. This allows me to remove my standpipes if needed(to catch a fish, clean out the overflow, replace a pipe,etc.).

    To achieve that have your return lines empty out high in your tank. This is a good idea anyway as it helps with gas exchange. You can also keep your starting water level in the sump a bit lower to accomodate the extra water.

    Believe me, if you do it this way you've greatly reduced your risk of a flood.
     
    LJC6780 likes this.
  17. shawn13c

    shawn13c Plankton

    Honestly guys i dont know a lot about what im doing i just watched the brs series and im trying to use that knowledge to do this. A check valve a good one anyway seems like a really good idea to have. Never used the head loss calculator so ill do that now.
     
  18. shawn13c

    shawn13c Plankton

    With the the plumbing set up i have in my head with the quiet one 300 its right at 600gph which is almost exactly wherw i want to be. My overflow is only a 1 inch durso system which i read is most efficient around that flow rate.
     
  19. shawn13c

    shawn13c Plankton

    Ok I know it has been awhile since I have made an update, but believe it or not I have some stuff ordered to come in today. I am gunna keep enough water out of sump and return high so it can handle if something happened, however I still am going to put a valve in just for extra precaution. It would just make me feel better. I decided to get the Quiet One 4000. I think it's a little much for the flow I want but im going to use a gate to slow it down where I want. I also wanted a little bigger in case I decided to get a reactor at some point. While I was shopping I went ahead and picked my powerheads and I settled on 2 Sicce Voyager 2's. I have been super busy with something else I have going. I started my own business in Feb doing maintenance and installation of freshwater aquariums. So working full time plus that on the side has kept me super busy. However due to no customers with my aquarium company it has freed some time for me to go back to my tank for now. Also does anyone know where I can find rock for this thing without spending a fortune. I don't even mind if it is dry rock. I want around 50-75 lbs. I don't really like the look of a lot of rocks overcrowding the tank. I am gunna plumb this thing this thing this weekend and due just a freshwater test in it to make sure its ok. I'll post some pics this weekend when I get it plumbed up and testing.
     
  20. LJC6780

    LJC6780 Grouper

    I know this is older but that is how mine is set up too! I have drawn a line on the sump where the water level needs to stay when running and then another when all pumps are off (and all flow has drained). This really helps for doing water changes and knowing where the water level needs to be. I also have a line on the skimmer side because I've noticed that my skimmer is super sensitive to the water level and will either flood the cup or not skim if the water level isn't right. I can adjust this with the movable baffle if necessary.
     

Share This Page